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Ausman last won the day on January 13

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About Ausman

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    Love/Hate waking up with a solution to a problem. Thanks brain....for not sleeping properly!

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  1. For clarity of numbers, have a look at my calculator from here: http://forum.unitronics.com/topic/3540-linearization-calculator-for-all/ Play with numbers as appropriate and watch the result. The idea for ramping is to relate the time elapsed to the desired temperature at that elapsed time, and then control heaters appropriately to match the desired temp. cheers, Aus
  2. Dumb question time. Have you made sure that all firmware versions etc on the new plc is identical to the old? Programming the new in the same Visi version as the old? (Even though that shouldn't make a difference, but who knows!) If that isn't the trick, run two instances of Visi side by side and then do right click Find on your different elements. The subsequent list might show up an error or number of instances difference between the two. If you have used the Replace operand facility, make sure that you have not overwritten something crucial in your new destination. Visi will just plonk any vector you specify over the top of existing stuff. Because of this, I only use Replace very carefully, and do multiple saves under a FIFO naming system so that I can go back even just a few minutes ago. cheers, Aus
  3. Let me see now. What does this ON button thingamijigger do? !!!!!!! 😀 cheers, Aus
  4. By this I mean that the inductive doesn't necessarily need to actually be on the arm. Most of the time you can find a convenient bolt head or similar within the drive train that can be used very easily by adjusting the sensor's mounting point to be in exactly the correct location. If the bolt etc is mechanically connected to the arm then it isn't going to vary! Although not applicable to this, in some instances where all else was not possible, I have even machined slots in motor shafts at the fan end to enable a definite read that the motor is actually turning correctly, an inductive picks this up very easily. Or put a leg on the arm that will prevent the scatter. Busy at present....just a quick drop in during morning start.....wait! cheers, Aus
  5. Put an inductive in a suitable location to sense when the arm is going to affect the beam. Disable the reading for that period. Alternatively, when the laser returns the reading it should get as constants with perhaps a given range from when the arm is in the way, set the program to ignore anything near those values. (Much like Bob suggested.) (This topic has also reminded me I never got around to showing to the world my "simple" averaging example, which I should try to find time to do!) cheers, Aus
  6. + to all of Simon's. As well, is your 24V really 24V? Sensor on the same supply? etc. I know Fluke are great, but have you done the same test on something else to check? cheers, Aus
  7. Erebo, sorry, I can't give this time for the next few days at least. Someone else chime in? That said, did you actually do the online manipulation like I suggested. Your "still having problems" doesn't really answer the question. cheers, Aus
  8. Joseodar, please check this post, and topic. It might help. cheers, Aus
  9. John, I find it curious that many types are giving you trouble. I just see a link between "power meter" and "drops". Is the chain done correctly with excellent shielding? Unshielded sections not near power lines? As well, are all devices set for comms correctly, with no clashing IDs? All terminations and resistors located/set/programmed properly? I know these are basics, but often something in a big chain is easily overlooked, or doesn't properly retain a change as expected, and a conflict arises. Many modbus things I work with annoyingly need a special program to change IDs and retain the change in the initial stages. Once done properly, normal access is easy. Of course, the basics of your question are also valid. But the coincidences are high, hence the questions. cheers, Aus
  10. arzel, click on the .ulpr link at the bottom of Liranaftali's post and it will act just like a download link. You must be registered and online on the forum to do this. cheers, Aus
  11. Hi dtwbb, please do not do multiple posts about the same issue. It just gets confusing on the forum. In future, please just do one post describing all your needs and observations, if desirable as a follow on in a topic, and include links to what you have found elsewhere if useful. I have left all of your current ones up for this time only. Please also remember that posts do not get shown until moderator approval occurs, which can be some hours if all the volunteers on this forum are not active. cheers, Aus
  12. Hi erebo, check the operation by going online first and manually manipulating the analog output. If you have indeed got everything set for using 0-4095 0-10V output correctly, and also everything set ok at the drive end, manually entering a value of 1020 should have your motor's reducer output somewhere close to 18.75 rpm. 2040 should be around 75/2 = 37.5rpm. etc. If this isn't the case then something is physically wrong with your setup. If it works ok, I'd be changing your maths around a bit, but that's the next explain. cheers, Aus
  13. Have a look at this post and it might give you ideas. Not exactly what you want, but near enough. Keep in mind that if you are communicating with a few slaves by modbus, you may not be able to do an accurate save every second, due to the inherent delays in the comms. cheers, Aus
  14. Thanks Keklon, I forgot to say that I manually enter a description into the largest vector the struct will make, to ensure I don't go near it with other things. Visilogic does not do this automatically, hence my earlier advice. Something like "Unit and Struct number and direction" copied down in all the Descriptions. Structs can get terribly confusing if you don't keep track of source and destination very well. Excel is your friend. cheers, Aus
  15. Hi all, recently had to change some internal modules/configs in a 130. Pulling the PCB was far more difficult than I was used to, and made me stop and reassess. This was a 130 that was already in use, and I found that I had left the microSD card in place. This protrudes enough to not let the pcb glide past the normally easy gap. Removed the card and things were ok. Moral of the story......Always ensure the MicroSD is out of a unit before doing any internal work. I know this is a very limited scenario, as most times this access is done during first install, but felt it worth noting here. The same thing might apply to a host of other models. cheers, Aus
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