Jump to content


MVP 2016
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by Ausman

  1. That's great Visco....sort of! It will be good to know if the replacement does the same thing...hopefully not. Sadly for me, my nature is to find the reason/solution when I encounter a large Grrr, even if it is relatively small in the scheme of things. Curiousity only killed the cat.....so as long as the human is careful it is ok! Very glad you are unGrrrrd for now. cheers, Aus
  2. And further to this, have you tried your generator in both locations? ie the sensor end of the cable, and also direct into the PLC? Both of these need to be done with the non-clamp direct reading. cheers, Aus
  3. Hi Visco, before you do anything else, you need to do a direct reading on your line, not with a clamp meter. Clamp is not good enough, even though plenty of people will tell you so. Just FYI, I had much the same thing with some combo temp/hum/co2 sensors doing a regular fluctuation. I initially thought it was an induction problem within the shielded line which was about 40m long. It eventually turned out that each time the co2 system triggered it's read pulse, the entire unit's outputs changed. The (bigname) manufacturer was most unhelpful even when I proved it to them with videos. In the end I had to filter it out with a fairly complex algorithm. Not happy. To prove the error, I used my mA generator. They don't have to be expensive, there are many good types available that are well under $50US. Mine is a bare pcb setup powered by a 9 volt battery and I think it was about $30AU years ago. It does mA, mV, 0-10, 4-20, blah blah blah everything under the sun. It's a little cumbersome to use but works great and is rock steady. Try a direct read and pls report back. PS Joe, sorry...beat you to it!! cheers, Aus
  4. Data Logger Help

    If you don't have a program for Joe's ask..... To me it looks like you are trying to find the way of triggering a write each time there is a change. 1 Set up a count that has 1 added to it with each input that is on. No need to use rising pulses as we will reset this count every scan. 2 After the scan has gone past all the inputs that change, compare the count to the previous scan's count, which has been moved into a "storage" MI at the start of the scan. 3 If the count is different then you have had a change somewhere so there is your trigger. 4 At the start of the next scan, first move the count to the "storage" MI, then reset it to 0. The accumulation and compare process then proceeds each scan. If you are trying to track inputs that are changing rapidly, you will fill your table very quickly! cheers, Aus
  5. Also check that the earth on this cable is correctly done, and check with a meter that it actually does bring the terminal to earth. cheers, Aus
  6. Thanks guys, I don't think either of these is going to be suitable for me. Joe's too big (and does it work on top of power over just the one pair? Couldn't find that?) and hot's me essentially making something which might not be durable. Although thermostats control heat and cool, I don't like the idea of uncontrolled fire either! cheers, Aus
  7. Hi all, I have been asked to do a small job (which is actually big when you get into it) where there is only one pair of wires to a location, and no means of adding more. Grrrrr! They want to put a "trendy thermostat" there that does simple switching on a number of poles. The operations are not complex, just continuous on or offs according to what the t/stat demands, and I have been tossing up ways to do this. Have considered a tiny 6 channel wireless transmitter/receiver system which will work but is a little cumbersome to fit and needs a tiny control addition at the receiver end to work properly. Preferably..... has anyone found and used a small gizmo that multiplexes such simple data onto a 24DC/AC power line? This is a very common but very proprietary practice in HVAC land where you have wall mounted controls talking to their A/C unit via their own bus protocol on top of the power to run the remote, but I have never done it from scratch. A bit of googling reveals most stuff to be "development kits" and I want something proven and off the shelf. Speed can be be really slow due to the simple and slow changing actions. The main thing is proven and reliable. The distance will only be 4 to 5 metres at most. Ideally the sending "box" will have terminated inputs that react at the receiver end as terminated matching outputs. I know I'm not asking much! I'm not going to get into the reason for replacing a dedicated controller that works well, with a "trendy" one that will work worse and take lots of $s and fiddle farting around! Ohhhh......in saying that I guess I have! cheers, Aus
  8. Analog Input with added up result

    Hi Sanyc, I'm not into Unistream at all, but to me it looks like you have your maths wrong on this. Y2 at 60 is to my eyes incorrect To convert Tons per hour into a second by second read, you need to be going either of two ways: 1). Every second do the reading, divide this by 3600 (seconds in an hour) and then add this to your accumulation. This method is likely to result in smaller numbers than desirable each addition, dependent on how much material is going through the system, and may not give an accurate result. 2). Every second simply store the raw input number into a large vector of MIs. Progressively bump this along for each read and then when you reach your decided time point do your maths then, based on how many seconds are involved in all the reads. This method would likely be far more accurate due to only using the raw numbers, but will use significant MIs. To save this you could do periodic intermediate calculations, so that you might only have a "60 seconds result" being put into another vector that you then work with for your final calculation. Hope this points you in the right direction. cheers, Aus
  9. Remote Operator Issues

    Uh oh!! As has been mentioned in other topics, also wondering whether your Cat 5 line and other control wiring etc is running near the VFDs and all their lines, or controls are well shielded etc. Although UTP is in theory noise immune, I always lay it nowhere near possible problems. Also ensure the net line run from the boiler to the switch/router avoids other lines as well. (ie isn't laid in the same conduit as the main power feed for the factory!) I only mention this because it looks like your issue is only when comms are in action...perhaps noise is the issue. Could possibly account for the random nature. VFDs can create all sorts of odd issues if not done right. And a quick edit addition: I have found supposedly good quality patch cables to simply be straight wires, no twists at all, upon closer inspection. Sometimes it can be worth doing one sacrifice to the cable gods to make sure. cheers, Aus
  10. Remote Operator Issues

    OK Allen, So the question at present is if the connection is still working ok since the SB168 change? Maybe that has many intricacies for such a simple description. For your sockets work, I am still confused as to how you're not creating a fast acting loop, and how do you then know the right connection to get in on? I must be being dumb at present (always!!) cheers, Aus
  11. Hi Martin, you need to have logic to cover this, using compares. It is something I have raised with the creators, trying to have max/min amounts incorporated into the block. No luck as yet. cheers, Aus
  12. Edited, I was stupid and didn't look at the description header! cheers, Aus
  13. Remote Operator Issues

    Also, don't forget the communication settings in RemOp. Some of my remote units need much longer timeouts than the default 1 second, and I have seen an auto reconnection happen on a 4th try on lines not as good as they should be! Simple things to adjust if necessary. I actually don't use RemOp at all, I prefer Remote Access. cheers, Aus
  14. Remote Operator Issues

    Hi ahoover, Uhmmmmm.........I'm no networking guru....but.... Why are you using 3 sockets? Am I mistaken in believing that the socket never closes and constantly talks to the router as a keep alive function? And I don't see how the rising pulse of SB149 is going to initialise the other socket correctly, shouldn't it be falling? Thanks for the email tips. Always learning! Cheers, Aus
  15. Analog input to Digital output

    Joe's answer is correct, but I well remember the first time I encountered this quirk of the program. It is initially confusing that you are using the same things repeatedly for a different result, all in the same scan....but that's the way it works. cheers, Aus
  16. Remote Operator Issues

    That's great Drew. Time will tell. Plenty more things to change if it still plays up. And Joe....your kid playing a game? Ha!! I thought he'd be helping you fix old radios! cheers, Aus
  17. Remote Operator Issues

    Hi DK, There are a number of things that might be causing this. The very first one to try is to see if a system bit is turned on. Access Information mode. To do this, "touch the touchscreen in an area that is not occupied by a Keypad Entry variable or other screen object that has been assigned a Touch Property". Then hold the "i" button until asked for the password. If the password is still standard, then enter 1111. If it has been changed by the supplier, ask them for it. (I may have this a bit wrong, please allow for me never using 350s, but the principles are the same across the range). Once in Info mode, navigate your way to SB168 and see if it is turned on. Please then advise back on this result. This bit controls a "link recover" function that might be the root cause of your dropouts. If it is off, the program needs to be changed to have it turned on at power up, and the supplier's tech can do this remotely. In the interim, if it is off, please turn it on and see how it goes. If you do this, be aware that any power interruption will change it back to off. cheers, Aus

    I haven't, and I would think re-assigning is very dependent on how you have the program set up in the first place . I also remember someone (I think it was Joe T) saying about one of his clients using a box cutter to press the keys....some people are rough on machines. Short of getting into the keypad and possibly doing a fix, I think you might be struggling. And I don't know whether you can just get a replacement keypad, I've never had an M91 apart that far. Other comments please. cheers and good luck Kikis, Aus
  19. Crude diagram? Hah...it's great. You should see some of my initial sketches of unusual things before they go to CAD! Common the lines? Yes, but I was more talking about the expansions and also how everything needs to power up at exactly the same time as the plc. I only ever use a single power supply for an entire system, but I know that Joe T routinely earths all his negatives....quote: "I usually ground the negative of my DC power supplies." I'm assuming he is talking about multiple supplies, but perhaps not. Pls chime in Joe, if you think it necessary! Either way, commoning of the negative is a logical thing to keep volts consistent throughout the system, and if it is commoned onto ground is perhaps even better. Me being the pernickety person I am, I would also ensure all the different supplies are at exactly the same volts as well, through tweaking their adjusters. I am intrigued by such a small current for those solenoids. Sounds like some small pneumatic robot stuff, which I am not into at all. Are there any specs for their initial draw? Most solenoid coils draw far more than rated until the core is correctly pulled into position. Worth checking to ensure your switching capacity/method is ok and durable. cheers, Aus
  20. Hi again Mal, As an aside, clarify this please. Will the modules power up at exactly the same time as the PLC, or are you meaning you now have everything commoned to one supply. Don't forget recommended commoning of 0V if separate. Also, depending on what you are running via the transistors, is 3.5A going to have enough headroom running the modules and all 64 points? If the values are being retained, this would be a fairly easy thing to check if you can be bothered undoing things a little. It could simply be a dud solder point on the crucial chip leg. Of course, I'm assuming the 1210 is still using a separate RTC chip on the board! cheers, Aus
  21. Thoughts entering the brain.......... Unlikely scenario but check......Is the new battery actually OK? Does the status bit change correctly if you put in a dud/leave out? Perhaps the system is power cycling without you noticing, and incorrect battery status is a root cause. Associated with above, what I/Os are you using, and are they all powered/wired correctly, and through fuses etc? Perhaps an error somewhere is causing a big enough dip to repower everything when certain I/Os activate everything they have. cheers, Aus
  22. Hi Paul, Yep, a solenoid valve coil turning off will definitely do a big spike. Have a read of this topic for a lot of tips, particularly Joe's post at the end re diode type. Important.......I'm assuming that when you say the noise is coming from coil, you are actually saying it is when it turns off. If it is happening all the time there is an issue with the coil itself. There should be no noise if it is in either state......only on transition from on to off. If there is noise during on, then it may also be the valve itself not opening correctly, but is most likely a faulty connection there somewhere. Check connections etc and try a new coil if possible. Also make sure the code is not written incorrectly and rapidly cycling the output, giving the impression it is always on but it really is going on an off. Put the scope on the line direct during on to check this. Very unlikely but possible. As for how to drive it, for a solenoid valve I would never be driving it direct from the snap-in. The only things I drive direct are very low power things without any inductive qualities at all, like LEDs. Every other instance goes through a standard relay or SSR, depending on the load being driven and frequency of switching. Lastly, my Confucius bit of the post....we all learn something new every day. Sometimes it annoys immensely, especially when it is fixing work by others who should know better. In this case it sounds like the entire machine was built without any thought about noise at all. cheers, Aus
  23. Going on the previous photos, I would also consider putting a suitable filter onto the mains supplying all the control gear power sources. And I still don't like that contactor being so close to the power supply and associated wiring. Separate that all out as much as possible, even put the contactor elsewhere. If they are happy to be buying new gear, then get metal enclosures as well! Nowhere near the cost of the plc, but admittedly a bit of mucking around rerouting all the wiring and possibly the component layout. But gee...plastic enclosures and a vfd? Arggh! Get 2 x s/s with one for power gear and one for all controls. I routinely have NO mains in the PLC enclosure at all, only control voltages, with the 24vdc supply coming in to the fuse distribution totally separated from control lines. Probably overkill, but makes it far safer as well as reducing noise issues...which I've never had. Hmmmmm! Finally, it looks like some of the conduit is in Flextite or similar. I'd be earthing one end of this as well, if it is indeed metal spiral. Everything that can induce noise but can be earthed down as a shield should be done. As for the degraded theory....perhaps....but I would have thought it would play up from the word go. Have you reinstalled everything into the plc? cheers, Aus
  24. BSOD in Windows 10

    Not even "Roll Back Driver" on the particular port's properties Driver tab, just in case it is that simple? cheers, Aus
  25. BSOD in Windows 10

    HI Saragini, You are way more knowledgable than me on this stuff, but just wondering whether your problems might be the "Msoft again taking charge of driver updating" ones that have beset me in the past, and they have suddenly changed a driver to one that doesn't work correctly. I routinely find my choice of "NO" button under Control Panel/System/Advanced system settings/Hardware tab/ Device Installation Settings is changed to Yes, which then allows them to change drivers that worked ok, to ones that don't. It might be worth checking this out, perhaps even via a restore point if possible. Edit: or perhaps even just simply rolling back the port driver as an initial trial? cheers, Aus.