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Ausman

MVP 2023
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Posts posted by Ausman

  1. Thanks Saragini and Cara and Hot,

    I also back Hot's comments, but I'm not going to let you off the hook yet!

    Saragini, I understand all that you are saying.  So............. another previous suggestion of mine was to have a window that appears at the very start of the install procedure, that says in BIG RED LETTERING that the program needs to be run as admin, and how to do it.

    I know I'm harping on this, but it is a real problem that crops up incessantly and wastes lots of time.  Although well trained, I forget to do it sometimes, and it's annoying to get part way through and make the realisation.  Invariably words get uttered like "Ohh gosh, I forgot to do that again!"  Or something like that!

    cheers,  (and thanks!)

    Aus

    • Upvote 1
  2. Hi all,

    I've whinged about this in the past, and it is still a major source of problems for newbies on the forum.

    Can we please have all the installation and program files tick the "Run as Administrator" flags themselves?  I don't know the mechanism as to how this gets forced, (and quick searching didn't reveal it) but it can't be that hard.  I encounter other programs where it is in place, so it just seems silly that Unitronics do not do it when it is absolutely necessary for the correct operation of their programs.

    It's a bit like getting a new car, then wondering why it doesn't run because it's something as fundamental as not having petrol (gas for you yankees!) in it.  

    If it's needed, do it automatically.

    cheers,

    Aus

  3. Hi Steveo, I didn't even look at your .vlps, as 2 things stand out.

     

    3 hours ago, Steveo said:

    Master v570 Port 2  connected to Slave v570 Port 2 with 6 wire cable. 

    6 wire?  Aren't you just using 485?

     

    3 hours ago, Steveo said:

    master as a bridge to the slave unit for downloading projects

    Also, why not just use the Canbus ports?  Dead easy and much faster.  You can have both types of comms going concurrently.

    cheers,

    Aus

  4. So on the desktops are you trying via an inbuilt port, yet on the laptop you are using a usb adapter?  This sounds like an instance where 485 is working ok but is really being assumed to be 232, and the desktops might be "stricter" controls.  What cable are you using to connect to the plc?

    Can someone else answer whether access is available via 485 into the com port with SD Explorer if the PLC has 485 set internally?  ie Does the Explorer comms box automatically change serial parameters if the chosen comm port is really 485?  I don't know the answer to this.  I've always gone on it only being 232 as the "base" line of communication.  I mostly use ethernet, but it's worth knowing.

    cheers,

    Aus

  5. I'd also be carefully checking that you have refitted all connections correctly during the battery replacement process.  Plugs fully into sockets etc.  Or perhaps have broken a wire without it being obvious?

    If the temp is highly averaged, it might take a while to come back to normal.  But in this case I doubt it.

    cheers,  Aus

  6. On 19/02/2017 at 8:55 AM, tonymony said:

    I am currently checking an installation of a Flow meter model: Hoffer HIT-2A. 

    OK, I am a bit confused now.  The above statement implies that you are wanting to check the installation.  How?  Are you wanting to check whether the actual flow matches what is on the Hoffer Meter?  Because if you are, and you use the meter's outputs to do the checking, you are in a wrong thought loop.  You will be checking what the thing you are checking is outputting.  You need to check direct from the turbine's pulse output.

    cheers,

    Aus

  7. Hi all,

    I've just had a squiz at this and I might have missed something, but why are you doing so much work?  If you have a device that outputs 4-20 as an amount per hour, simply divide the Linearised result by 36000 to get flow per .1 seconds.   edit:  And don't forget you can often do this by adjusting numbers within the Linz itself.

    And looking at the HIT specs, it only updates 4-20 every 2 seconds anyway.  You might have to go the pulse method.

     Analog (4-20mA) Output Option
    Scale: 4 – 20 mA follows rate.
    Accuracy: 0.02% of Full Scale @ 20ºC.
    Temperature drift: 40 ppm/°C
    Update Time: 2.0 seconds.
    Connection: Two wire.

    cheers,

    Aus

  8. OK, in the meantime as well, check these links out to get ideas on other ways you can possibly go.  These are just some of the methods that keypads can be interpreted into the PLC, saving on the number of inputs.  You can consider them all during thinking about how you want to do things.

    For the idea of keypad matrix:   https://www.sparkfun.com/products/8653    (look at all the pictures on the page, one explains matrix)

    Taking it one step further and making it BCD:  https://www.rapidonline.com/rapid-keyboard-encoder-project-kit-70902

    This pdf (from the above page) explains it  https://www.rapidonline.com/pdf/70-0325.pdf

    Another way:   https://stevenengineering.com/pdf/18KP_612A.pdf

    cheers,

    Aus

  9. OK.  Still confusion.  I'm assuming you are talking about having your push button "1" connected to Digital Input (DI) 1.  Then your button 2 on DI 2 and so on.  This will use many of the inputs, which is  OK if you have them to spare.  You saying "port" in some ways means the serial connection socket, hence my question.  There are other ways of doing this, but.........

    Before I go any further, have you considered using a cheap touch screen computer running Remote Operator, directly linked to the PLC?  In some ways this will be the easiest method of the lot as you can use the inbuilt number entry methods in Visilogic etc, but via a touch screen instead of the membrane keys.   You may end in similar costs by the time you cost out keypads etc doing it the other way.  You can find RO here to trial it:   http://unitronicsplc.com/Download/SoftwareUtilities/Remote Operator V1.0.67.zip

    In the same thinking, maybe go up a PLC model to one that has a touchscreen as standard?

    cheers,

    Aus

    • Upvote 2
  10. Glad it's fixed.  It is annoying when it happens 'cause you don't really consider it.  And let's remember they're such low voltages etc that the slightest separation stuffs things.  We have a name for such a small distance in Aus, but I'd better not post that!  Then the damn cable works when you put it somewhere else due to a different angle blah blah.  Into the recycle bin immediately!!

    And you learnt some other stuff along the way, which is always useful.

    cheers,

    Aus

  11. OK.

    1   Have you tried another type of usb device in the same socket on the PC?  Anything at all that previously worked ok.

    2  In the same vein, have you tried using another socket on the PC?

    3  Re the broken core, yes...it makes no sense that the system still recognises a plug insertion with one line down, but that's what happened, and happened a few times.  I don't know the mechanics of the usb process enough.  A new cable and away it went.  I am not at all hard on cables, but I do know there are many different construction qualities out there!

    4  Go back even further on system restore....as far as you can?  Maybe it wasn't the update?  It still reeks of driver issue. 

    cheers,

    Aus

    • Like 1
    • Upvote 1
  12. Ohh no, the old usb issues!

    1  Perhaps Win 7 is now doing the W10 trick of updating drivers to whatever Msoft deems best, regardless of what the user wants/knows.  I'm still on 7 and haven't encountered this yet, but I very carefully look at every update that is offered and find what it is doing.  The immediate suggestion is if you have System Restore on, you should roll back to before the updates and see what happens.

    2  I have had instances where a usb cable has suddenly broken a line internally.  I'm assuming you have tried another known good cable in your attempts?  In my instances the error messages you're getting were similar..."unknown but I know something has been plugged in."  Murphy's law says that this failure is going to happen just after an update that will appear to be the culprit!

    3  Have a good read of this entire discussion:

    In particular note the program I recommend:  http://www.pro-it-education.de/software/deviceremover/  

    Edit: I have discovered this link doesn't work anymore.  Can now be found here:  http://www.softpedia.com/get/System/System-Miscellaneous/Device-Remover.shtml

    I have found it incredibly useful for removing dud drivers Windows squirrels away.  If you haven't had luck doing 1 & 2, try getting rid of everything using it and start again from known good drivers.  ONLY install them.

    4  I am finding more and more devices that used to be serial connections, but are now usb in the same looking body.  But lo and behold they have just added a prolific/fake chip onto the pcb so that it "looks" like the unit is usb to the user.  It is essentially still serial and the onboard chip lets them get into it if they don't have serial connections available, like modern stuff infuriatingly doesn't.  I have been exceptionally careful about what I allow to happen during the first insertion of any device that likely falls into this description.  It is a minefield.  Tread carefully!

    cheers,

    Aus

     

    • Upvote 3
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