Jump to content

John_R

Members
  • Posts

    264
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    16

Posts posted by John_R

  1. 25 minutes ago, Simon said:

      I've also seen plenty of messes that happened when losing track of which swapper version is currently the registered version.

     

    I follow Flex's advice of putting the different version Icons in a row, then moving the Swapper Icon under the currently registered version Icon, saves a lot of headaches....

    https://forum.unitronics.com/messenger/2013/

  2. I have a truck with that "feature"...

    there is a whole myriad of things that inhibit the auto-stop function

    engine not up to temp
    low fuel
    off road/sport driving mode
    uphill/downhill stops
    taking foot off brake and re-applying a couple times with in several seconds
    steering wheel turned more than X degrees
    trailer or dummy plug connected to trailer light socket
    and others........

    I personally find the function annoying....
    and maybe it works good when the vehicle is new, but what happens with age and it gets hard to start?
    you can press the button to turn it off, but it is not a persistent setting, every time you start the vehicle it turns on.

    I have a friend who is a dealer mechanic, he tried to connect to it with the OEM service computer, but could not disable it.

    I did some research and found a site called Forscan, that has software, I purchased a USB to OBD-II adapter and was able to make a change where at least Auto-Stop OFF is the default mode.

  3. Oh yeah... it's a healthy little fan, been sitting around my shop for years, don't remember where it came from.
    and yes, it is loud.....

    I had built a little enclosure out of foil faced foam-board to keep the sun off my swimming pool pump,
    and have this fan blowing through the enclosure when it gets hot out, else the pump motor thermals out.
    last week our temps hit 100F (yes, us americanos like to use the F word instead of the C word). 😳

    Like I said, loud, you can hear it over the pool pump, so I wanted to see what happened if I slowed it down a bit.

    And I do have smaller/quieter fans that I could use, but as I said, I'm experimenting...
    Since I've retired from the working world I find myself wasting all kinds of time doing stuff "just because".  :rolleyes:

    image.png.dd26560040cea6e8f55486a7f93fcc85.png

    image.thumb.png.82de03795a6e693851396c0a134a5e85.png

  4. On 6/19/2021 at 6:43 PM, Ausman said:

    John, different motors need different speed controls.  I don't know the term "boxer" (you americanos not talking aussie) but perhaps it means shaded pole?  I doubt that it's going to work immediately without something else.  It's a bit of a minefield.  One of the reasons motors are hard is that the windings and the way they work is essentially an inductive device that generates all sorts of odd things.  Couple that with all the different starting methods and caps involved or not and it gets messy. 

    My first phone call is to the maker if possible.   Even then, my final hardware backstop for some speed control of motors that supposedly can't be done is multi-tap transformers.....a seemingly long forgotten method that's been replaced by electronics.....except they often generate hum that the tranny doesn't!

    However, put your clamp meter on the line at full speed, do some measurements and then play, starting at the lowest PWM you can and increase slowly.  See what the fan does and whether current draw seems odd for what is being achieved.  If it IS a simple motor then it might just work if the draw bears a linear relationship to speed.  If you have an infrared temp gun, check the motor body as well for anything odd compared to normal full speed running.  Don't forget that fans rely on the inherent flow over the motor to keep things cool.  Even though at slower speeds the motor should be using less power, sometimes it isn't enough flow to compensate.

    A zero-crossing ssr might also help, but you can imagine the conflicts involved if your pwm is not near the line Hz rate.

    You wanted a simple answer, but sadly not as easy as one might think.

    cheers, Aus

     

    Aus...

    Sorry for the confusion, we Americanos also call them "muffin"fans...

    I'm pretty sure this would be a shaded pole motor..

    I've also done the tranny thing in the past, just thought as an experiment I'd try this as it seems I already have the hardware in place.

    John

    image.thumb.png.d39c84895b1e2f73c76de541eb40b999.png

     

  5. Hey All,

    I'm playing with one of my home projects where I have a 6" "boxer" fan (120vac 85W) cooling some components.

    The fan is currently controlled from my PLC with a PNP output turning on a random crossing SS relay (AD-SSR810-DC-48R).
    I would like to slow down the speed of the fan, and seems it should be just a matter of adding HSO/PWM to the output?

    But I've not done this before, so before I let the smoke out of things here, I figured I'd ask for opinions...

    What do you'all think??    :unsure:

  6. The best way I have used involves setting up a DT (Data Table) to hold your records,
    then an interval timer that is used to increment a counter which sets the row you are writing to in the DT, as well as implements the save command.

    The DT can then be retrieved to your PC using the DataXport utility and can be saved as a CVS or Excel file.

    Look at Help/Examples/Version900/Project Examples/Data Table/V570_data_log.vlp

    We are all happy to help, but you gotta work for it....

    Work with this example and show us what you come up with, then we can all give you pointers after you figure out where you are going :huh:

  7. I can remember a time in the "way-back", when I had set up a control for a small machine. just a PLC with switches and lamps for the User Interface,
    then they decided they needed to be able to adjust the time of a certain function, so I added some small red lion display that showed the timer preset with up/down buttons to change the value. For some reason I couldn't define the decimal position on the display, and the operator was confused by the term Implied Decimal.  I'd point to the spot and say "just pretend there is a decimal point here", he still didn't get it...

    Finally, I grabbed a bottle of White-Out, and made a "dot" on the display.... Oh, now I get it....

  8. On 4/2/2021 at 6:41 PM, kratmel said:

    Maybe first memory card... :)

    I remember seeing a memory device similar to this at my first mentors workshop back in the mid '70's

    It was an archaic thing at that point, but I seem to remember that the memory bank included inductor/cap/resistor circuits that "remembered" their last logic state, and transferred that with some sort of FIFO logic.

    Crazy thinking back in those days, but we wouldn't be where we are without it....  😵

    Now, what happens when you throw one of these in front of a young'un?

    image.png.a216368482ce8b07b8aac76038bab951.png

    I still have my first TI-35 scientific calculator that I bought in the '70's....

    • Like 2
  9. alright Fellas, riddle me this..........

    I have a V570 out in my workshop, one of its duties is control of the heaters in two different rooms.
    On the Heat Control display I have a couple of indicators (binary images linked to outputs) that turn green when the output to the heater relay is on.

    Which works as it should when in debug from Vision (and on the V570 itself);

    image.png.c5c590c22b19a8223f81ddcfbfcf4c47.png

     

    But when I go to Remote Access to look at the same display (from the same PC), my indicators do not work;

    image.png.1e6034dab2192f15b8dff8e2474472de.png

     

    I first thought it was because I had an older version of Remote Access install, so I replaced it with the newest version, same results.

    Anyone have any ideas why it does this?

    JohnR

  10. Hey All,

    I'm wondering if anyone has some good tip/tricks for dealing with scratches and scuffs on touchscreens.

    At this point I'm working on a PV+1000, that someone had cleaned with a scotchbrite pad, but of course this would apply to any brand...

    I keep visualizing some sort of "polymer" substance that would flow into the abrasions, and buffed when dry, thereby hiding the scratches, but I've not yet found that magic product....

    Seems like that would be some sort of "headlight scratch remover" or some  similar product?

    Ideas anyone? 🤔

    Regards,
    JohnR

  11. Well, as a follow up...

    I did set up a T/C welder (as suggested in Kratmel's post) with a tungsten in a modified tip in my MIG with an argon gas shield, and welded the T/C junction instead of soldering.

    But, in a side by side comparison, the readings from the welded junction and the soldered junction were almost identical, so much for the theory that the solder flow induced an offset the reading (which is a relief in one way as I have been doing soldered junctions for years).

    And since my mentor, Joe T, has said many times, "empirical data tells all"..., I will build an offset into my code to make my readings closer to being correct...

    JohnR

  12. Hey All,

    I'm working a a little home workshop playtime project...

    I'm using a V570 with a V200-18-E3XB snap I/O module.

    I "hand-rolled" some type T thermocouples (wires at the business end tightly twisted and soldered to create my TC junction).
    Each T/C is about 30 ft long, and a direct connection with the E3XB module.

    I find that the readings I get at room temp are about 8 deg F higher than I get with "real" thermometers.

    I know I can build an offset into my readings, but curious where the discrepancy lies;
    Does the solder (60/40) that flows through the twisted Copper/Constantan junction create an offset?
    Does this fall within the expected accuracy of the E3XB module?
    Or is it something else?

    Anyone have any input on this matter?

    Regards,
    JohnR

    tc junction.PNG

    e3xb.PNG

  13. "The V280 has evolved over the years of its existence since 2004.  The little door on the back and built-in RS485 didn't come along until about 2012.  The earlier units did not have native RS485.  You'll need the V200-19-RS4 module.  The V200-19-RS4-X isolated module is the current part number, $53 US from your friendly dealer. 

    Or I saw an old -RS4 on the Ebay for $22.00.  I often wonder how many people get their hardware on eBay and then come here for tech support....

     

    Joe"

    Just to confirm what Joe said, here is a comparison of two versions of a V280, note the jumpers behind port 2 on the right hand board...

    image.thumb.png.861ef78d15e6150989e58feb7963e307.png

     

  14. Hey All,

    Well, here I go again with a mystery Run Time Error in DataXport...

    I spent the past year with a seemingly futile effort to resolve my previous mystery; Run Time Error 3709, and  with unsuccessful help from here on the forum. and with a couple different guys from the Unitronics Help team, I had resigned myself to restarting DataXport a couple times a day to clear the error.  That mystery magically resolved itself around the first of November.

    NOW... I find myself with a new Run Time Error popping up every few days...

    image.png.a1bf13c83a42c3d88ca02f6cb1829bbe.png

    And when I click the OK button, DataXport shuts down.

    The only fix I have found thus-far is to delete my .ulp from the DataXport folder, then copy/paste by backup copy in, then DataXport will start.

    Anyone have any ideas on this one??

    JohnR

  15. Yes, the CBC-801 is a non isolated, floating DC supply, so yes , care will have to be taken with the switch/wiring.

    The original design has a step-down transformer (480-120) that feeds power to the DC drive boards (if you consider that isolation), and the DC boards are also non isolated...

    Same situation would apply for powering whatever type of power supply I come up with.

    Unless I roll my own, if I can find a transformer with about 65VAC secondary, with a full wave bridge and filter cap that should give me right around 90VDC.  But hat defeats the thought process of using off the shelf parts...

×
×
  • Create New...