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John_R last won the day on February 11

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  1. I remember seeing a memory device similar to this at my first mentors workshop back in the mid '70's It was an archaic thing at that point, but I seem to remember that the memory bank included inductor/cap/resistor circuits that "remembered" their last logic state, and transferred that with some sort of FIFO logic. Crazy thinking back in those days, but we wouldn't be where we are without it.... 😵 Now, what happens when you throw one of these in front of a young'un? I still have my first TI-35 scientific calculator that I bought in the '70's....
  2. I thought about trying car wax, but was afraid that it would dry pinkish/white in the scratches and look even worse... But that gets me thinking about some magic "as seen on TV" scratch remover for car clear coat finishes, perhaps something like that would work well....
  3. Well, once again Joe, you are correct But the bizarre thing is that in all my years using Remote Access "back at the plant", I've never had to do that??? JohnR ⛄
  4. alright Fellas, riddle me this.......... I have a V570 out in my workshop, one of its duties is control of the heaters in two different rooms. On the Heat Control display I have a couple of indicators (binary images linked to outputs) that turn green when the output to the heater relay is on. Which works as it should when in debug from Vision (and on the V570 itself); But when I go to Remote Access to look at the same display (from the same PC), my indicators do not work; I first thought it was because I had an older version of Remote Access instal
  5. Hey All, I'm wondering if anyone has some good tip/tricks for dealing with scratches and scuffs on touchscreens. At this point I'm working on a PV+1000, that someone had cleaned with a scotchbrite pad, but of course this would apply to any brand... I keep visualizing some sort of "polymer" substance that would flow into the abrasions, and buffed when dry, thereby hiding the scratches, but I've not yet found that magic product.... Seems like that would be some sort of "headlight scratch remover" or some similar product? Ideas anyone? 🤔 Regards, JohnR
  6. A woman is visiting her husband who is in prison. As she is leaving, she tells the prison guard; "You need to stop working my husband so hard, he is exhausted" The prison guard laughed and said; "Ha, your husband does nothing but eat, sleep and stay in his cell" The wife says; "Well that's odd, he tells me he's been digging a tunnel for months...."
  7. Two hats were hanging on a hat rack in the hallway. One hat said to the other; "You stay here, I'll go on a head" I wondered why the baseball kept getting bigger, then it hit me.....
  8. Well, as a follow up... I did set up a T/C welder (as suggested in Kratmel's post) with a tungsten in a modified tip in my MIG with an argon gas shield, and welded the T/C junction instead of soldering. But, in a side by side comparison, the readings from the welded junction and the soldered junction were almost identical, so much for the theory that the solder flow induced an offset the reading (which is a relief in one way as I have been doing soldered junctions for years). And since my mentor, Joe T, has said many times, "empirical data tells all"..., I will build an offset i
  9. OH MY.... I didn't catch that shameless inclusion of the JTA sticker... 🙄 But Joe, I can give you my paypal info if that's easier than the WalMart cards.... 🤑 I think I'll play around with the MIG method using an argon shield as I have that available in my shop.... JohnR
  10. Hey All, I'm working a a little home workshop playtime project... I'm using a V570 with a V200-18-E3XB snap I/O module. I "hand-rolled" some type T thermocouples (wires at the business end tightly twisted and soldered to create my TC junction). Each T/C is about 30 ft long, and a direct connection with the E3XB module. I find that the readings I get at room temp are about 8 deg F higher than I get with "real" thermometers. I know I can build an offset into my readings, but curious where the discrepancy lies; Does the solder (60/40) that flows through the twisted Co
  11. "The V280 has evolved over the years of its existence since 2004. The little door on the back and built-in RS485 didn't come along until about 2012. The earlier units did not have native RS485. You'll need the V200-19-RS4 module. The V200-19-RS4-X isolated module is the current part number, $53 US from your friendly dealer. Or I saw an old -RS4 on the Ebay for $22.00. I often wonder how many people get their hardware on eBay and then come here for tech support.... Joe" Just to confirm what Joe said, here is a comparison of two versions of a V280, note the jumpers be
  12. Hey All, Well, here I go again with a mystery Run Time Error in DataXport... I spent the past year with a seemingly futile effort to resolve my previous mystery; Run Time Error 3709, and with unsuccessful help from here on the forum. and with a couple different guys from the Unitronics Help team, I had resigned myself to restarting DataXport a couple times a day to clear the error. That mystery magically resolved itself around the first of November. NOW... I find myself with a new Run Time Error popping up every few days... And when I click the OK button, DataXport s
  13. A vulture boards an airplane, carrying two dead raccoons. The Stewardess looks at him and says, "I'm sorry sir, only one carrion allowed per passenger"..... There was a person who sent ten puns to friends, with the hope that at least one of the puns would make them laugh. No pun in ten did.....
  14. Yes, the CBC-801 is a non isolated, floating DC supply, so yes , care will have to be taken with the switch/wiring. The original design has a step-down transformer (480-120) that feeds power to the DC drive boards (if you consider that isolation), and the DC boards are also non isolated... Same situation would apply for powering whatever type of power supply I come up with. Unless I roll my own, if I can find a transformer with about 65VAC secondary, with a full wave bridge and filter cap that should give me right around 90VDC. But hat defeats the thought process of using off t
  15. Thanks all for the suggestions... I'm still leaning for the little Warner clutch/brake power supply, it's compact and plugs into a 8-pin relay socket. says its good for 1.25 amps at 90VDC, my little gear-motor says it draws 0.85 amps..... I'm trying to get away from these little DC drive boards, I have a lot of moisture induced failures with these (the slightest dampness and they shut down, let them dry and they work again, just a big nuisance...), and they also take up a little more "floor-space" in my limited panel. Also, a common off the shelf item....
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